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mrdannyg
Alright, the regular 'big game' at my casino is often a 10/20 mix of LHE and Omaha Hi. There's enough donkeys in it that I certainly have an advantage in LHE, and am confident that I can easily beat them at Omaha too. There's a couple decent Omaha players in the group, but they're mainly just very tight. A couple are really terrible, like old men misreading the boards, calling down with two pair, forgetting to use 2 cards, etc.

The rake is high (10% to $6), but the game is usually 8-10 handed, and play loose/passively, typical of live games.

I'm basically just looking for advice, and general background for playing Limit Omaha Hi, that I can then build on while I learn the game.

Things like:
- hands to open with in early position
- hands to raise with in early/mid position with limpers
- hands to raise with in late position with limpers
- hands to raise with from the blinds (multi-way)
- starting hand strength, aka when to limp at a loose/passive table. does a tight player (<10% VPIP from EP) limping before me affect my decision significantly?

also, equity considerations, like how strong flush draws are (ace-high and otherwise), how strong wrap draws are if the flop has two of a suit, how often do you try to isolate with two pair/set type hands, and how often you'll wait for safe turns, raising with draws (in or out of position) and things like that.

Any/all help or links are appreciated. I'm on my way to read NOFX_Punk's guide. Are the omaha sections in SS1 or SS2 good starts, or are they mostly for PL?

Thanks
mrdannyg
as an example, i often see suitedness and connectedness stressed in limit omaha. two hands i was curious about were:

limping 4568s mid-position. seems nicely suited and connected, but it really only has strong straight possibilities, so is it at all strong? do i limp it?

cold-calling a raise multi-way with 3JQQs. seems like some nice implied possibilities, so do i cold-call? what kind of hands am i cold-calling raises with?

help! thanks
benhoug
QUOTE (mrdannyg @ Friday, December 15th, 2006, 9:50 AM) *
also, equity considerations, like how strong flush draws are (ace-high and otherwise), how strong wrap draws are if the flop has two of a suit, how often do you try to isolate with two pair/set type hands, and how often you'll wait for safe turns, raising with draws (in or out of position) and things like that.

Any/all help or links are appreciated. I'm on my way to read NOFX_Punk's guide. Are the omaha sections in SS1 or SS2 good starts, or are they mostly for PL?

Thanks

I've never played Omaha Hi live, but have played O8 live a bunch of times. If the Hi game is anything like the 8 or better ones I've played in, you've got to pay w/ any flush. Online I typically only play A-high, or maybe K-high flushes, but live that's very different.

There's probably not going to be a lot of isolation. Also there's going to be a million times when you flop a straight and get outdrawn by the river. My basic advice is to play tight up front, a little looser from around back. In this game you can draw to non-nut hands b/c you'll get paid often enough with your 2nd and 3rd nut hands to make up for the times you run into the nuts. Try not to play danglers, don't get attached to 2-pr. hands.

EDIT: Play any hand where you start w/ 2 prs. in your hand, with the exception maybe being a hand like 2233. Raise in postion w/ a hand like JJ77. If you flop a set you're gonna get paid, and you'd be surprised how often you'll flop a set. If you miss, just dump it.

I don't know if any of this advice will help, but, hey, I tried...
benhoug
QUOTE (mrdannyg @ Friday, December 15th, 2006, 9:56 AM) *
cold-calling a raise multi-way with 3JQQs. seems like some nice implied possibilities, so do i cold-call? what kind of hands am i cold-calling raises with?

Throw this hand away. It's got a dangler, and not a whole lot of room for improvement.
mrdannyg
QUOTE (benhoug @ Friday, December 15th, 2006, 2:05 PM) *
I've never played Omaha Hi live, but have played O8 live a bunch of times. If the Hi game is anything like the 8 or better ones I've played in, you've got to pay w/ any flush. Online I typically only play A-high, or maybe K-high flushes, but live that's very different.

There's probably not going to be a lot of isolation. Also there's going to be a million times when you flop a straight and get outdrawn by the river. My basic advice is to play tight up front, a little looser from around back. In this game you can draw to non-nut hands b/c you'll get paid often enough with your 2nd and 3rd nut hands to make up for the times you run into the nuts. Try not to play danglers, don't get attached to 2-pr. hands.

EDIT: Play any hand where you start w/ 2 prs. in your hand, with the exception maybe being a hand like 2233. Raise in postion w/ a hand like JJ77. If you flop a set you're gonna get paid, and you'd be surprised how often you'll flop a set. If you miss, just dump it.

I don't know if any of this advice will help, but, hey, I tried...


helpful stuff here. isolation is something i will be able to use a bit, since i'm a new player in the game, and my raises have been garnering quite a bit of respect.

the two pair advice is very interesting, since i figured sets not to be that strong in limit. can someone agree/disagree with this?

QUOTE (benhoug @ Friday, December 15th, 2006, 2:06 PM) *
Throw this hand away. It's got a dangler, and not a whole lot of room for improvement.


i should limp if it was only bet though, right?

also, in this case, i actually limped, and it was two bets back to me. one by a very tight player in the SB, and one by a donkey UTG who might limp/reraise anything. pot was looking to be about 4-5 way, with a couple dead limps. SB was likely going to cap. i never see people limp/fold at higher limits, but seems like i should do it here.
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