I have PokerOffice but have never used Pokertracker. Has anyone used both? Are they different at all? If so, how? Which do you think is better? Why? I personally am ok with Pokeroffice. I'm just curious.

PokerOffice of course, because when You're a TAG You become a wizard.

How do you import NL hand data into PT?

I cant for my life figure it out. The only ones that show up are limit games, and when i go to preferences, the only options are for limit (for each set of stakes).

abba: I don't know; but I get NL hands from Party in there, automatically, just like LHE... still having trouble? I can look around to see if I had to do something...


My Question:

My 1st DB got to big and crashes even after being packed so, I repaired it and started a new one.

So my 2/4 is split.
Ideally, I'd get rid of other players history from .5/1 prior to October, and other stuff to reduce it and keep all my hands together for easier analysis.
How does one go about purging hands (I did that under the Utilities tab) but my DB was still same size..maybe I need to pack it again?..althogh I think I did) or keeping the db small.

Or do you open different databases for different game types and just do it that way.

Down side there is when you start to datmine at next level, your own current level stat will be split to the new database (not a big deal, since by then you should feel comfortable with your game)..

Anyway..no one reads these!

So..I should just go to the PT.com forum huh?

ok

I think the problem is that i have a pirated version. Ive been meaning to get around to buying a legit copy. One of these days ill do it.

Kind of a piss off. I lost all my NL hand histories.

Plus i can't load hands from obscure sites that the old version of PT doesnt recognize, where im clearing bonuses.

For tournament play the statistics I focus on are:

Pre-flop - my opponents V$P (or whatever the acronym is lol), their attempted steals and their defense of steals

Flop - the continuation bet statistics and check raise frequency.

I use PokerAce HUD, since I think it supports more tournament sites than GameTime+. It is extremely flexible.

The only thing I dont like about it is that it wont filter based on position in that hand, which, once you have a robust data base, is more meaningful than blends of all positions.

I'm not sure what I did.... My Gametime stats work but for some reason when I go into ring stats it's not showing any updated information... What did I mess up? Also I have 2 databases and the information is popping up at either...OOPS...

whats the best/cheapest way to aquire pokertracker?

i think the best way is to sign up for PSO:
www.pokersourceonline.com
do one promotion, and you can get PokerTracker.

hint: you can do a promotion directly for PT, or you can just do it for the points. since you get 6000-9000 points per promotion and PT costs only 5000 points, you should get the points, then just buy PT with them.

feel free to use my referral: goodmanpoker and/or PM me if you've got questions. also sign up on the PSO forum - it is very useful.

good luck,
daniel

6 Max Party.

so, you check the box.
But what if you play a mix?

I think you're probably screwed if you play a mix. This and the fact that the full-ring tables have become pretty rockish is why I've decided to focus solely on six-max for a while.

You might be able to check the PT forums or email support though to see if there's more info on this.

2 things:

1) do you have to set up seperate databases for Limit/nl games? If so, how do you do that?

2) As far as statistics for NL. Do they differ from limit? Anyone have any guidelines as to what means what?

you don't need separate databases

NL stats are calculated the same way, but stats of winning NL players are a lot different than stats of winning limit players. look at the stickies in the various 2+2 NL forums for more detail.

I'm looking now, and I can't find anything. I'm not really all that familiar w/ 2+2. I think i've only made like 100 posts on there

Is the distinction between gametime+ and pokerace HUD that gametime only offers the entire table's combined stats, while pokerace offers an individual player's stats? If not could someone explain the difference between the two. Thanks in advance.

Sorry if this has been asked but I'm on the way out...I just have a quick question...is pokertracker not used for sit and gos?

Also...Where do I get add ons for it and which one is the best?

tx

Is pokertrainer considered cheating or is it okay to use?

It's ok to use. Perfectly legit.

I am a new pokertracker user but I use it for everything from limt to NL, to MTT's (and rebuys), to Sngs. IT allows you to specifically enter even 1 table 2 table up to 5 table sngs seperately so you can sort them out if you want and see your profitablity in each type. As well As MTT's too. What I find most useful with it for tourament poker is ROI(return on investment) lets you know where you are and how well your doing in your tourament play. It keeps track of hands and other stats but i don't find a lot of that very useful becuase of the different table condidtions. ie in sngs you end up short handed so you stats are not the same 10handed as they should be heads up.

Some of the place i have read suggest filtering out all the differnt players per hand i havn't take the time to do that and right now don't see much vaule added to doing it.

anyone know where the pokerstars hand history is?

You have to make the folder.

In the software go to Options -> Instant Hand History Options

The rest should be easy.

Anyone know how I auto-import my UB hands into Pokertracker?

Do I have to email UB every time I play a session to get the hand history?

There's an addon from the PT site, pretty sure. Ultimate Hand Grabber or something like that.

Does PokerTracker work on FCP? Is there a way to make it work?

lets talk about what the thrid number means.... (total aggr. factor)

There are some good threads on the PT boards. It can get pretty detailed, and it's hard to explain, for me, at least.

For any information not covered in this thread, refer to the forums at http://pokertracker.com.

I was just wondering how you make the graphs on poker tracker. Does anyone know?

Download PokerGrapher.

Check the Poker Tools thread that is also pinned.

I have searched the internet and could not find anything. I was wondering if anyone has any help regarding autorating players in short handed no limit hold'em. Anything I could copy would be fine.

i donwloaded this and am so confused what to do


anybody looking to get pokertracker contact me

You really just gotta play around with it for a while.

Also, the forums at http://pokertracker.com/ are a goldmine for info and help.

Question - How do set it up so that 6 max and full ring are separate? The way it's set up now it counts both as the same as far as showing my stats.

On newer versions of PT, in the auto-import screen, you can say "mark as 6-max" or whatever, but I forget to change it back when I play full, etc, but also, it means you can't import both at the same time (ie play a full and an SH table).

I stopped doing that; what I do is just sort my stats by players at the table in the Preferences tab when I'm looking at things for specifically SH.

That kind of sucks. I play a mix of games. My stats make me seem more lag for fr than I really am.

Weird thing - I was playing a .25-.50 limit game with a kill. It had a separate entry for that game in my stats.

If they can do that, I don't understand why they can't separate sh and fr stats.

If you have PT, can you download the newer versions as they come out? Hopefully, they'll fix this.

Well, it all depends on how the poker site tags their HHs. Party's used to show up as 6-max if they were SH hands. Stars don't, AP's don't... actually, Party's are the only ones I've ever seen...

Seriously though, just sort them to see your stats at FR...




I'm pretty sure you can update it from within the program...

I've never done it though, I just have a newer version on my new computer.

If I sort them to see my stats at FR, it won't show my 6-max stats, right?

I'll just keep it set up as it is. I'm really only concerned with one stat, which is my winrate.

Thanks for the help. Sorry for the stupid questions.

When you go to the Preferences tag, you can sort by players, so do like between 7 and 10 players, and it'll be just full ring.

For SH do less than or equal to 6 players.

I figured it out. Thanks.

This is a pretty good pokertracker post on 2p2 that I dont think I've seen in this thread but it for sure deserves a mention.

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This is a how-to post, but it doesn't belong in the software forum; it's to teach people how they can use the Poker Tracker data to find flaws in their game.

Not a week goes by that someone doesn't ask if they are playing the game right. In that post, they include a dozen numbers from Poker Tracker and hope that the old-timers on SSNL can fix all their holes. While it's true that Poker Tracker can help find problems, this is not the way to approach it.

I'm going to try to give you a rough guide for the things you can do to check on your game. These are all just my opinion; they're all subject to interpretation, and other people may disagree with me strongly. The best way to play is usually player-specific, but these strike me as some things you can check on that are frequent flaws in the small-stakes player's game.

1. Do you have sufficient preflop aggression? To answer this question, open up your ring game statistics and go to the "position stats" page. For each position other than the small blind, divide the "PF Raise %" by the "Vol. Put $ In Pot." If you get a number smaller than 0.5, you're not aggressive enough out of that position. See, aggression is a relative term; it should be a function of your level of looseness. You can be a consistently winning player at SSNL with a VPIP of 12%, and you can be a consistently winning player at SSNL with a VPIP of 30%, but only if you are sufficiently aggressive. My general guideline is that you should raise at least half the hands you play, from every position on the table.

2. Are you positionally aware? Positional awareness means that you understand Ed Miller's comment when he said:

Quote:

Total all the dollars you've ever bet playing poker. The large majority of those dollars should have been bet from late position. Only a small percentage of your total handle should have been bet from up front.



To test this, go to the Position Stats and look down the list of VPIP from Button to UTG. You should see that VPIP steadily dropping the farther you get from the button. I'd love to see my button VPIP at double my UTG VPIP, but if my Button VPIP is at least 50% larger than my UTG VPIP, I'm happy with the situation.

3. How's my stealing? To check on your performance when trying a blind steal, go to the General Info. tab. Where it says "Att. To Steal Blinds" I'd like to see that number at LEAST 20%. (Personally, I like mine to be over 30%, but I'm very aggressive in these situations. If you're trying to steal the blinds less than 20% of the time, you're leaving lots of money on the table.) Now click on "Filters..." and under "Chance to Steal Blinds" click "Chance to Steal & Raised." Select OK and look at the numbers. This shows every time you've tried to steal the blinds, and how the attempt turned out for you. Under "Totals" see the "BB/Hand" statistic. That shows your per-hand winrate on blind steals. If you multiply this number by 100, it should be at least double your "PTBB/100" average winrate. If it's much less than that and you have a decent sample size, you have a hole in your game when it comes to blind stealing. This should be an exceedingly profitable thing to do when you try it; if it's not, you need to work on your strategy.

4. Defending the blinds. Click on "Turn Filter Off," and then click on "Filters..." again. Under "Blind Status" click on "Either Blind." Now under "Vol. Put $ In Pot" click on "Put Money In." This shows you if you're bleeding money out of the blinds. A "BB/Hand" of about -0.375 would indicate that you were no better off putting money into the pot than if you had folded. If your "BB/Hand" is larger than that, then you typically win back some of your blind money when you put money into the pot from the blinds. That's all you can really hope for. If you click on "Filters..." again and go under "Steal Attempted Against Your Blind" and click on "Steal Attempted." After you click "OK" you'll now see how you did when you chose to defend against a blind steal. Again, the magic number is for your "BB/Hand" to be bigger than -0.375; that means you're making back some of your blinds when you try to defend against a steal. If either of these numbers is lower than -0.375, you'd lose less money by always folding rather than doing what you're doing.

5. Heads-up play. Click on “Turn Filter Off,” then click on “Filters…” again. Under “Hands With Between…Players Seeing The Flop” change the range from “0 to 10 players” to “2 to 2 players.” Hit “OK” and see what comes up. This shows you how you’ve done when you were heads-up preflop, but a flop was dealt. See how you’ve done in these situations. If things look OK, go back to “Filters…” and under “Pre-flop Raise” select “No Raise.” This will show you how you’ve done when you didn’t raise preflop, but the hand was heads-up on the flop (this includes pure limping and when someone ELSE raised preflop, but not when you were the preflop raiser). Is this number positive? If not, it could be an indicator that you have trouble when you are not the aggressor preflop, especially without padding in the pot.

6. Multiway pots. Clear the filter and go back under filters. Change “Hands With Between…Players Seeing The Flop” to “3 to 10 players.” This shows you how you do in multiway pots. If things look good, go back and select “No Raise” under “Pre-flop Raise.” Is it still positive? If so, you’re selecting good times to play/limp multiway pots, and you’re playing them well postflop.

7. Pocket pairs. Under “Filters…” change the “Type of Hole Cards” to “Pairs.” This will show you how you generally play and perform with pocket pairs. Your Total VPIP with these should be EXTREMELY high; unless you play at highly unusual tables, I’d be surprised to see this number below 85%. Pocket pairs make extremely powerful hands that are extremely well-hidden; if you’re not playing them almost all the time, you’re leaving money on the table. Also, your Total PFR% with these hands should be rather high -- at least 1/3 of your VPIP, if not 1/2. Some people have this number higher still, and I don’t have a problem with that, especially at short-handed tables. If you have enough hands, I’d expect every one of these lines to be positive, and reasonably significantly so. If you have any glaringly negative numbers, especially AA-88, it may indicate bad play. Look over individual hands where you lose lots of money and see if you played too timidly early in the hand, or if you went too far unimproved in the face of resistance. Also, look at the hands where you won to see if you played too timidly, or if you routinely forced weaker hands out when you should have been milking them for profits.

8. Suited connectors. Under “Filters…” change “Type of Hole Cards” to “Suited Connectors.” I’m much less likely to play suited connectors than pocket pairs, but some people play them religiously. As a result, I don’t really have a good suggestion as to how high your VPIP or PFR should be. However, your BB/hand should be positive; if it’s not, you’re probably not playing your suited connectors well. Remember: these hands play best in a multiway, unraised pot, or as a steal move. In the “Filters…” change “Vol. Put $ In Pot” to “Cold-Called.” When you hit OK, you should have almost no entries to view. Of the times you cold-called, you should be able to come up with a specific explanation for why you did so in each and every one of them. Review the hand histories; if you can’t come up with a really good reason why you thought it better to cold-call, rather than raise or fold, you need to rethink your suited connector strategy. Good explanations: the raise was very small, villain is passive post-flop, I had position on villain, villain and I are both extremely deep-stacked, villain is incredibly aggressive preflop, my suited connectors are particularly strong, there are several cold-callers in front of me, etc. I’m not saying you shouldn’t ever cold-call with suited connectors; rather, I’m saying you shouldn’t AUTOMATICALLY do so. Your default play here should be to fold weak suited connectors and reraise strong ones.

9. Unsuited connectors. Clear the filter and then go back into it. Change “Type of Hole Cards” to “Off-Suited Connectors.” Your VPIP for these hands should be noticeably smaller than your VPIP for suited connectors. Check your winrate and make sure it’s positive. Filter for cold-calling and see if you had good reasons for doing so, keeping in mind that the reasons need to be even stronger than for suited connectors.

10. Postflop aggression. Clear the filter. Select the “More Detail…” button above the “Filters…” button. Scroll down. There is a section marked “First Action on Flop After A Pre-flop Raise.” This shows your likelihood of continuation betting. If you add Bet and Raise, the total should be at least 40%. If it’s not, you’re probably giving up too soon on your good hands, and that will cost you money in the long run. Remember: people who cold-call a preflop bet are often in fit-or-fold mode. If you don’t bet, you don’t give them a chance to fold. The pot is already decent-sized, and there’s no reason to give some donk a free look at a turn card that could sink you. If you raised preflop, you need a good reason NOT to raise the flop. Continuation betting should be your default play. Scroll down a bit farther to “Aggression Factor.” Your total aggression factor should be at LEAST 2. No-limit is not a game where you can call frequently and turn a profit. You should always be looking to see if you can raise or fold; only if you have a good reason why you CANNOT raise or fold should you call. As a result, calling should be an infrequent occurrence in your play, which gives you a large aggression factor.

11. Check-raising. Some people never check-raise; others check-raise infrequently. I personally like to check-raise at least once in awhile; 1% would be fine, 0.5% would be acceptable. The goal of the check-raise is to remind your opponents that just because you checked does NOT mean that you don’t have a hand. However, circumstances need to be very specific for a check-raise to be appropriate. Typically, I check-raise on the flop when OOP against a preflop raiser, or on the turn when OOP against a flop bettor/raiser who was clearly not on a draw (uncoordinated flop). If you are check raising much more than 2% of the time, you’re being entirely too tricky for a SSNL table, and straightforward play would probably be more profitable for you.


All of this is just an introduction to the kinds of self-analysis you can/should do with Poker Tracker statistics. Notice how much more in-depth it is than just glancing at a few VPIP numbers. Typically, the only person who can truly do a “check-up” on your playing style and ability is YOU. As always, if in your searching you find hands that indicate you may have a flaw in your poker reasoning, post them up (one at a time, of course). Tell us the problem you are worried you might have, and why you think this hand might indicate the problem. Then, open the discussion up to see if 2+2ers agree or disagree.

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Direct link: http://forumserver.twoplustwo.com/showflat...?Number=4946669

Can i delete the hand history files after i import them to PT?

I mean you know PT imports the hand histories then moves the processed files to a folder. Can i delete the files in that folder to open some space in my computer? Does it affect PT stats in any way? Do i lose hands in PT database?

I don't think it matters.

why doesn't my manual keeped profits and pokertracker profits match?

There is a +150 difference on PT and i am sure my hand written profits are correct.

Check each session. See which session doesn't add up.

Possible that PT's just missing a few hands (hands with errors, etc).

Disconnections will **** up PT, as you won't get a hand or two from the game server.

Is pokertracker the best software for databasing tournament hands?, or are there other tournament specific products out there?

Just bought PT about a week ago and have imported all of my SNG data, but FT doesn't include tournament summaries which kinda kills any statistics that I could get from PT about my SNG winnings. I checked out this page; http://www.pokertracker.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3256 , and tried the Tourney Updater but couldn't get it to work. Is there any easy, quick way to get tourney summaries from FT. I have 360+ SNGs and really don't want to manually enter all of this data. Thinking about just deleting them and sticking to another site for SNGs, but I really hate to lose all this data. Any input/suggestions?

Thanks.

Does anyone know if Poker Ace hub runs on windows vista for Pstars??? If not, is there another heads up software that works??

I know it works. I don't know how it works, as I still have XP, but I've heard maybe you have to run it as an administrator for it to work correctly.

http://www.mattahfahtu.com/gfts/