suited connectors

[All_In 0]

i just read that suited conn. play beter in no limit, u should not play low SC in limit.do u guys agree?do u play SC in any position, regardless of what they are (ie QJ vs 3 4).just want some thoughts on the subject.THANKS!

[Guest]

i personally dont like low suited connectors and ill only play them if no one raises.

[All_In 0]

i personally dont like low suited connectors and ill only play them if no one raises.

so u'd play them in early pos w/ no raise after u?

[DeNuts1 0]

Suited connectors work better in no limit only because they are more profitable in no limit. The only position I play suited connectors in limit is when i am in late pos. and several people are in the pot (4 or more). This is when they are most effective in limit. I prefer the higher suited connectors like 78, 89, 910 etc vs. 23, 34. These cards usually allow you greater benefit after the flop than the smaller connectors.

[fryer98 30]

i personally dont like low suited connectors and ill only play them if no one raises.

I am not a fan of them either. I play NL HE 99% of the time. In late position, I may call 9-10 or above, depending on a lot of factors. What do others feel about them?

[Guest]

i personally dont like low suited connectors and ill only play them if no one raises.

so u'd play them in early pos w/ no raise after u?

no and normally ill only play 6-7 suited and higher. the rest is junk to me.

[Ship_It 0]

First off, i would recommend only playing suited connectors that can make 4 straights, throw 23s and 34s out the window. Second, I recommend only playing suited connectors in late position(and sparingly at that) and even then you must know how to correctly play them on every street(i.e. pot odds when going for either draw, implied odds etc.) They can be very profitable hands and I like them much more in NL than Limit games as the implied odds are through the roof against people who can't get rid of big pairs. But, you must be confident in your post flop abilities in order to play them in either game.

[Ship_It 0]

First off, i would recommend only playing suited connectors that can make 4 straights, throw 23s and 34s out the window. Second, I recommend only playing suited connectors in late position(and sparingly at that) and even then you must know how to correctly play them on every street(i.e. pot odds when going for either draw, implied odds etc.) They can be very profitable hands and I like them much more in NL than Limit games as the implied odds are through the roof against people who can't get rid of big pairs. But, you must be confident in your post flop abilities in order to play them in either game.

[NormanHaupt 0]

I think I'm losing a lot of money playing suited connectors. I like seeing flops beccause of the flush possibility.. but straights, to me, never seem to hit- and I lose money chasing.

[BilliardsBoy 0]

Suited connectors make me happy While they are sketchy to play, they can rake in a large profit at the right time. Early on I almost never, sometimes in late, but in truth I play them more when someone is already in the pot or even raised. If its a cheap bet compared to my stack, if I have position on the raiser, then why the hell not? As many will tell you, playing sc is easy because you hit or you don't. And against a raise, your implied odds are sick. I'm sure I'll catch hell for saying this, buts its just how I play.In limit, I would agree with your statement. In limit, far too many people come into a pot with sub-par hands. If your one of these people, feel free. But your two pair or draw on the flop could easily hit someone in limit as players will draw more with crap hands.

[Guest XXEddie]

23, 34, unless in blinds fold4 5 - 9 10, call, unless be raisedJ 10, QJ, ...maube KQ even, raise to try to win the pot...AKs.....raise....because its AKs

[NormanHaupt 0]

AK suited.. lol I don't call that a suited connector, I call it overkill. :PBut yeah, 23s is dangerous because the suited part isn't that strong. So you flop a flush? with all the Axs players out there, and the fish who'll play anyy two suited, what do you think your chances are, if you're beat in a flush, someone else has a higher card than your 3?Thnik about it, the answer will come.I honestly try to only play 56-KQ. Yeah, I play KQ even if they're not sooted because 99% of all my games are loose because I make 'em loose.

[Leedspokerguru 0]

5-6 and 6-7 are my favs. The are better in NL cash games. You might not win every time but when you do win you usually win big pots. Don't go crazy with them and calling large raises. I like to come in with a small raise, to build a pot and give yourself odds to draw on a favourable flop, if i choose to play them.They do seem to win big when you hit a raggy flop, but don't call out of position and in bad situations or you could find they do more damage than good to your profits. Just my thoughts.

[KDawgCometh 2]

5-6 and 6-7 are my favs. The are better in NL cash games. You might not win every time but when you do win you usually win big pots. Don't go crazy with them and calling large raises. I like to come in with a small raise, to build a pot and give yourself odds to draw on a favourable flop, if i choose to play them.They do seem to win big when you hit a raggy flop, but don't call out of position and in bad situations or you could find they do more damage than good to your profits. Just my thoughts.

mmm yum yum. I love these hands. Mid suited conectors are shiz nizzle, when you hit a flop you usually hit it hard and to great results for you. The key is to be careful with them as its easy to go overboard with them. They are great for your table image too as people will play back at you more when they see that you aren't playing with premium hands all the time, so you'll get more action on your big hands

[Smasharoo 0]

do u guys agree? Yes.I much anything under 98s unless I'm on the button and there a ton of people allready in the pot.

[akishore 0]

i'm going to try to give simple facts instead of opinions like a lot of answers above are based on.suited connectors work multiple ways. the idea when you play them is to go for one of the following:1. two pair2. trips3. flush / flush draw (situational)4. straight / straight draw (situational)i don't know the exact odds of hitting any of these on the flop, but the idea is that you can easily drop them if you don't hit (a pair doesn't count) and you can rake a lot of money in if you hit.the idea with flopping two draws works well in NL (situational) and loose, low limit games because you will often have the correct odds (pot and implied) to chase the draws, and when you hit your draw, you can win big pots.so in loose low limit games, i play any suited connectors between 45s and TJs pre-flop in middle position (if someone has limped in before me) or late position (if multiple people have limped in before me). i do NOT play them in early position (especially not when the first in the pot), or when the pot's been raised before me (unless there are at least three other cold callers), or there are less than two limpers before me in late position (since these cards thrive in multiway pots).in NL games, i will play them for cheap in any position, and i will even play them to a raise if the raise is not a huge part of my stack (e.g. 1/20 of my stack--5 big blinds to play when i have a 100 big blind stack). the other thing with NL is that i will ONLY play them on the flop--i will not chase any draws after the flop unless it's noticeably inexpensive. if i don't hit hard on the flop, i will throw it away.hope this helps,aseem

[NormanHaupt 0]

Akishore gives among the best advice here- so I make it a point not to disagree when he's right.I still don't play my suited connectors right.

[UglyJimStudly 0]

i just read that suited conn. play beter in no limit, u should not play low SC in limit.do u guys agree?

No. Suited connectors play better in loose games with lots of callers, where you're getting odds to see a flop with a hand that will either hit the flop hard or be quietly folded. Preferably you don't want to invest a ton of money preflop, though this is mostly a bankroll consideration. This means you want a loose and probably passive game, and generally want to be in middle or late position. Either limit or no-limit works fine if it fits this description, it's one of those situations where the type of table matters more than whether it's limit or no-limit.