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#1 fckthis

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 06:14 AM

I need help on pot odds calculations.If anyone has links to articles, or quick easy ways to figure out pot odds, itd much appreicated. After seeing "noob" posts from partypsux, and seeing the level he's at now, Im just gonna try to improve this area of my game. Thanks.
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#2 navybuttons

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 07:12 AM

View Postfckthis, on Friday, July 21st, 2006, 7:14 AM, said:

I need help on pot odds calculations.If anyone has links to articles, or quick easy ways to figure out pot odds, itd much appreicated. After seeing "noob" posts from partypsux, and seeing the level he's at now, Im just gonna try to improve this area of my game. Thanks.
don't be ashamed. there is nothing wrong with asking questions only not asking questions.do you think phil ivey is ashamed to ask someone how he played a hand? i don't use pot odds calculators but i hear pokerstove is pretty good and may be what you are looking for.congratulations.
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#3 Uppie_

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 07:47 AM

Pot odds are the amount of money in the pot, including current bets in the round compared to the amount you have to call.lets say there is 100 in the pot, you lead out 50 get raised 50, so it cost you 50 more to call. with 250 in the pot or 5:1 is the odds you getting. you can think of it this way for every bet i put in At this momement how many do i stand to get back if I win this pot. A quick way to calc what price you need is muiltlple the number of outs you think you have after the flop by 4 after the turn by 2. and that will give you the % of time you will make your hand. so lets say for example you have a flush draw wth 9 live outs, you are about 36% to make it after the flop which means, he is about 64% to hold up he is roughly 2:1 closer to 1.85:1, to win the hand. Hope this helps
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#4 fckthis

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 11:43 AM

Is it possible for someone to give me the correct pot odds for some situations:A flushdrawAn openenderA gutterA 2 outeretc.Or maybe an article.
Mike Matusow: want to play some o 8
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#5 Scott3705

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 11:49 AM

View Postfckthis, on Friday, July 21st, 2006, 11:43 AM, said:

Is it possible for someone to give me the correct pot odds for some situations:A flushdrawAn openenderA gutterA 2 outeretc.Or maybe an article.
Easier way in NL is just to count your outs so say a flush draw was your only clean out.... you have 9 outs.for one street, multiply outs X 2 for two streets mutiply outs x 4. So on the flop we have 9 outs x 4 for both streets which equal 36% (it's actually inaccurate, but it's close enough). So you're slightly better than a 2:1 dog (64/36). This means that if a player were to push all in for 100 (making a pot 200) you have odds to call because the pot is laying you 2:1 (200(amount you can win)/100(amount you have to pay))

#6 fckthis

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 11:52 AM

View PostScott3705, on Friday, July 21st, 2006, 11:49 AM, said:

Easier way in NL is just to count your outs so say a flush draw was your only clean out.... you have 9 outs.for one street, multiply outs X 2 for two streets mutiply outs x 4. So on the flop we have 9 outs x 4 for both streets which equal 36% (it's actually inaccurate, but it's close enough). So you're slightly better than a 2:1 dog (64/36). This means that if a player were to push all in for 100 (making a pot 200) you have odds to call because the pot is laying you 2:1 (200(amount you can win)/100(amount you have to pay))
Thanks. This year I havent been playing much cash games, and simply have no been paying attention to pot odds as much. I do rough estimations, however, I think Ive realized that I need to incorporate it alot more, and start practicing the calculations.
Mike Matusow: want to play some o 8
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Ram Vaswani: you to good at 500 1k but i play you 1k 2k

#7 MasterLJ

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 12:37 PM

fckthis, this may be overwhelming but there is one aspect of pot odds that most people don't get, and to be honest, took me a very long time to learn as well.Pot odds are used to make +EV decisions, not +profit decisions. There are cases in which making a +EV decision will lose you money in the long run, but, making said decision, will minimize your losses.I used this example on 2+2 and nearly got ROFLed out of the thread, but here goes:A restaurant has fixed costs of $100 per day (such as rent). If they were open 0 hours a day, they still owe $100. If I were to break the day into two parts (lunch and dinner), then the fixed cost per shift is $50 for lunch and $50 for dinner.The restaurant makes $80 during dinner ($80-$50 = $30 in profit).The restaurant is not open for lunch ($0 - $50 = -$50).Total daily profit is -$20.The owner decides to open the restaurant for lunch. They average $25 per lunch. An employee asks the owner "why are we open for lunch, with $50 fixed cost and only $25 in revenue, it's at a loss?"After the owner fires the employee for snooping through his financial information, he informs the employee that he is minimizing his losses.Now his daily profit is: $5 (you can do the math)The point is, opening the restaurant is NOT a profitable proposition, but it is a less NOT profitable scenario.To apply this to poker:There's $5 (let's say you contributed $2 pre-flop) in the pot with you and 1 dude going to the flop.You bet $4, villain raises you to $11, now there is $20 in the pot. (costs you $7 to call).If you fold every single time, you lose $6 every time.Calling yields pot odds of $7/$20 = 0.35So, if your hand has a greater than 35%+ chance of hitting ON THE NEXT CARD, you should call, otherwise fold. Let's say you have an OESFD with 2 over cards (all outs are clean). That's 21 outs, and a roughly 45% chance to hit on the next card. You should definitely call (at least).An example would be:You hold K :club: Q :D The flop is: J :D 10 :D 2 :) This math suggests that the odds are very seldom correct to draw. This is generally true. A lot of people justify drawing due to implied odds etc, and there's truth to that. Your opponent can really screw your game by NOT paying off your draws. That's why the river is the most important card in hold'em, it decides whether or not your play was profitable.
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#8 Actuary

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 02:25 PM

read SSHE.

#9 fckthis

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 02:38 PM

View PostActuary, on Friday, July 21st, 2006, 2:25 PM, said:

read SSHE.
Once I get enough pokerstar FPPS I shall. Local bookstore doesnt carry it.
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#10 jjdylan

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 02:56 PM

View Postfckthis, on Friday, July 21st, 2006, 2:38 PM, said:

Once I get enough pokerstar FPPS I shall. Local bookstore doesnt carry it.
www.amazon.com
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#11 SavageHenry

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 05:53 PM

http://www.cardplaye...ves/?a_id=13913this is pretty much all you need to know.

#12 LongLiveYorke

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Posted 23 July 2006 - 03:19 AM

View PostMasterLJ, on Friday, July 21st, 2006, 4:37 PM, said:

There's $5 (let's say you contributed $2 pre-flop) in the pot with you and 1 dude going to the flop.You bet $4, villain raises you to $11, now there is $20 in the pot. (costs you $7 to call).If you fold every single time, you lose $6 every time.Calling yields pot odds of $7/$20 = 0.35So, if your hand has a greater than 35%+ chance of hitting ON THE NEXT CARD, you should call, otherwise fold.
Your math is a bit off.We are getting 20/7 pot odds, which is about 2.86 to 1.We need to win 1 out of every 3.86 therefore to break even.Thus, we need to win 1/3.86 = 25.9% of the time.To check: we win a quarter of the time, so we lose thrice and win once:Lose once, minus 7lose twice, minus 14lose thrice, minus 21win once, we get 20 so we break even (actually we're down 1, but we approximated a bit)

#13 fckthis

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Posted 24 July 2006 - 08:30 AM

View PostSavageHenry, on Friday, July 21st, 2006, 5:53 PM, said:

http://www.cardplaye...ves/?a_id=13913this is pretty much all you need to know.
Thank you. This was the article I was looking for.
Mike Matusow: want to play some o 8
Mike Matusow: 5001k
Ram Vaswani: you to good at 500 1k but i play you 1k 2k




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