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People play 50$ max tables with 1/3 of my bankroll and manage to move up in a month. I manage to break even for 3 weeks and lose 8 buyins in 4 days. I am off to boil some pasta. That's all.

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Almost an hour and no replies.Sorry you can't beat the $50 PLO, have you identified your leaks?What are you putting on your pasta?

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Almost an hour and no replies.Sorry you can't beat the $50 PLO, have you identified your leaks?What are you putting on your pasta?
I have no idea. Noone plays around me and i have noone to observe and comment on my game except a few hands i post here. I played a few sessions with Simo but he wasn't paying attention while playing. I thought i was running bad for while but i can't run bad for weeks can i? The play at $50 is pretty awful. I find a lot chances to put my money in as good OR i think i put my money in good. I caught a few very very marginal situations where i put a whole buyin in the pot. Actually i am sure i have plenty of leaks but i can't really understand what they are.****Only tomato and olive oil. Al dente spaghetti pomodori.
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I am with you. I seem to play really well and make good decisions, but i just can not seem to win. When i played with you at 0.25 and 0.50 blinds you seemed to do fine, played a little tight, but other than that no big deal. You saw how i lost all my money, flop trips and a up and down straight with a flush twice and lost to a small full house both times on the river. Maybe just a bad month?

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I have no idea. Noone plays around me and i have noone to observe and comment on my game except a few hands i post here. I played a few sessions with Simo but he wasn't paying attention while playing. I thought i was running bad for while but i can't run bad for weeks can i? The play at $50 is pretty awful. I find a lot chances to put my money in as good OR i think i put my money in good. I caught a few very very marginal situations where i put a whole buyin in the pot. Actually i am sure i have plenty of leaks but i can't really understand what they are.****Only tomato and olive oil. Al dente spaghetti pomodori.
Good choice on the pasta ;)If you want someone to watch you play then let me know the next time you sit down or I will look for you when I am online.I am no expert by any means but I seem to lose the same way bassplayer does. I have a full house, they have a higher one. I have a straight flush, they have ... well you get the point :(Sometimes it is possible to run bad for a couple weeks, even months.
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I played a few sessions with Simo but he wasn't paying attention while playing.
True. I had zero attention span during those few weeks. I didn't really want to play, to be honest.I will endeavour to play more in the coming weeks, and I will keep an eye out for you.
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look at poker tracker. check all the big pots you played. how did the money go in? thats the first thing i would check. you most certainly can run bad for weeks or months.

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OK, I've seen some of your posts and so I've got an idea of how you play.A while back, I said that LAG was the best way to play PLO, but I qualified it by saying that was effective against a certain opponent type(weak-tight) - and that it was a slightly tricky style to play.I think you should go back to basics. You're probably playing too many hands outside of the CO and button. Only very strong starters(AAds, near-perfect rundowns, KKQQ, Ad8d9hTh etc) should be played for raises in earlier positions. The LAG style you play is not working. Pot control is another area where you have major problems. For example, you're too quick to pot your slimmer draws and are often being raised. The belief that PLO consists of many coin-flips is a myth. You should try to shove when you have the best of it(or can never be far behind), and entice more dead money into the pot. You're almost playing it like holdem(although with more outs due to the nature of the game). Nut-peddle more until you find the appropriate tables for LAG play. You're going deep with way too many non-nut hands at the moment.When playing LAG, try and avoid the flop bet if you miss, and concentrate on taking raised 'orphan pots' on the turn. Remember, against weak-tights, a smaller bet will fold them as much as a pot-sized bet a lot of the time. A lot of my bluffs are with 1/2 pot bets.The 'nut-change' bluff only works on certain boards/streets. The 'dry-Ace' bluff needs careful opponent selection and bet-sequencing. In SH PLO, there is a technique where one raises in LP, and check the flop, then make moves on turn/river depending on opponents' actions and board changes.Also, there are some hands where you raise or call raises in SB or other EP, and at the same time you tell others not to do it. Don't do it!! Also, you should be checking the vast majority of the flops in EP. Whether you check-fold, C/C, or C/R is then dependent on what's going on.Pot-manipulation(or pot-control) is the most important aspect of PLO. This is almost never mentioned.The business of position is worthless if you don't know what to do with it. PLO is a game of nuts and drawing(it's often 2-1 or better that the nut type changes). So you need to be considering actions and pot/stack sizes over 2 streets a lot of the time.

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Pot-manipulation(or pot-control) is the most important aspect of PLO. This is almost never mentioned.The business of position is worthless if you don't know what to do with it.
i'm glad i woke up this morning.i quoted the above part because it's so so true. people talk about "pot control" all the time but very rarely understand it and execute it. hell, i don't know if i fully understand it. i think i have just built a sense for bet sizing and free cards. anyway, great post ahosang.bud, in your graph you ran good up until hand 10K and then had a sharp drop. is there any chance that you got too confident or tried to switch your style or something?
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Very helpful post ahosang thanks. I wish you were posting more often in this forum.Navy , After making the graph i took a look at the hands and noticed i definitely loosened up. I bluffed more. I played my draws more aggressively. Also found a few hands which can be explained only by tilt.Still my overall VPIP is %25 and my PFR is %6.I was planning to move down to 25$ but i will watch a few cardrunners videos (thanks to navy) , get my **** together , and give myself a 6 buy-in try. If i lose it , i will move down and try to re-learn the game untill i get my rakeback.

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I'll try and look at a few more hands. Sometimes i'm reluctant to post because I'm uncertain as to what the reads are.Only when there is some clear best move involving pot-manipulation do I tend to post.

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OK, I've seen some of your posts and so I've got an idea of how you play.A while back, I said that LAG was the best way to play PLO, but I qualified it by saying that was effective against a certain opponent type(weak-tight) - and that it was a slightly tricky style to play.I think you should go back to basics. You're probably playing too many hands outside of the CO and button. Only very strong starters(AAds, near-perfect rundowns, KKQQ, Ad8d9hTh etc) should be played for raises in earlier positions. The LAG style you play is not working. Pot control is another area where you have major problems. For example, you're too quick to pot your slimmer draws and are often being raised. The belief that PLO consists of many coin-flips is a myth. You should try to shove when you have the best of it(or can never be far behind), and entice more dead money into the pot. You're almost playing it like holdem(although with more outs due to the nature of the game). Nut-peddle more until you find the appropriate tables for LAG play. You're going deep with way too many non-nut hands at the moment.When playing LAG, try and avoid the flop bet if you miss, and concentrate on taking raised 'orphan pots' on the turn. Remember, against weak-tights, a smaller bet will fold them as much as a pot-sized bet a lot of the time. A lot of my bluffs are with 1/2 pot bets.The 'nut-change' bluff only works on certain boards/streets. The 'dry-Ace' bluff needs careful opponent selection and bet-sequencing. In SH PLO, there is a technique where one raises in LP, and check the flop, then make moves on turn/river depending on opponents' actions and board changes.Also, there are some hands where you raise or call raises in SB or other EP, and at the same time you tell others not to do it. Don't do it!! Also, you should be checking the vast majority of the flops in EP. Whether you check-fold, C/C, or C/R is then dependent on what's going on.Pot-manipulation(or pot-control) is the most important aspect of PLO. This is almost never mentioned.The business of position is worthless if you don't know what to do with it. PLO is a game of nuts and drawing(it's often 2-1 or better that the nut type changes). So you need to be considering actions and pot/stack sizes over 2 streets a lot of the time.
I was out of town for a couple days and this is what I came back to. Awesome post.
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  • 3 weeks later...
Change that last notation on the top of your graph to "ship money to stake bdc so that him and I can both pwn the PLO on this site" plzkthx :club:
lol soon mate. As soon as i become a regular 100PLO grinder.
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Im with you, i took the majority of my funds out and recently put 50 bucks in to mess around with. I have run it up to 212 and have broken even the last weeks, aint that exciting, but i think everyone hits a wall every now and again. I was up big, but then you have an idiot who on a 100 dollar table check raises you all in on a Qd 10d 2d board where you have [Ad Kd Qh 9h] in your hand and he shows [Qc Qs 10h 10s] and makes a four of a kind on the river to take the majority of your roll. Ah good times

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Im with you, i took the majority of my funds out and recently put 50 bucks in to mess around with. I have run it up to 212 and have broken even the last weeks, aint that exciting, but i think everyone hits a wall every now and again. I was up big, but then you have an idiot who on a 100 dollar table check raises you all in on a Qd 10d 2d board where you have [Ad Kd Qh 9h] in your hand and he shows [Qc Qs 10h 10s] and makes a four of a kind on the river to take the majority of your roll. Ah good times
Bankroll management FTW.
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Oh i know, i should be playing 5 cent 10 cent, but i just felt like playing some omaha so i was seeing where it went.

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I'm guessing you can redeposit if you bust? The whole 20/30/40/etc buyin rule is mostly for people who want a low risk of going broke. Playing with a shorter roll is fine if busting doesn't bother you.EDIT: Hell, I was playing 3/6 and dabbling in 5/10 a little over 12 months ago on a ~$9k roll. Then my Uni fees had to be paid and I was left with very little BR.

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Oh yeah, i am about to enter the real world so it is kind of a last final fling, i can re deposit anytime, i am def. not busto

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If you managed to plug your leaks and are solidly beating the games now, then congrats, but if you still want help, you should really post your PT stats. A lot of the time something like flop aggression or VPIFSB or W$WSF will show a red flag.

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what software do you guys use that tracks your stats and play. Especially the one that bundy uses to graph his progress?

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