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STud 8/b questionI play micro limits stud 8/b on PS. I often have trouble in the following situation - I pick up a big pair (QQ and up) and i start ramming and jamming. If i do improve to 2 pair by 5th street, I'm usually a very happy person. The problem comes when 5th street arrives and i still only have one big pair and i'm in a 3-way or more pot. Its here that i start to get scared beacuse i feel that if i dont get 2 pair by this time, my hand has no showdown value. So i usually dump it on 5th. However, the needle really comes when two players make it to the showdown - one has a low, the other has only one shitty pair that I could have beat (results biased i know). When do you feel is the ideal time to dump your big starting pair in stud 8? How many people shoudl be in the pot to make your one big pair have no showdown value?What street should be the cutoff point that you stop playing your big pair aggressively?Should I always beware of an opponent's paired board when i only have one big pair?

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Steve -I hear a lot about "table selection" from people around the forums, regarding cash games. What makes a "good table"? Is it finding a single player you know is weak and sitting in? What other factors contribute to a "good table"? If I'm looking to sit in on a .50/1.00NL or 1/2NL cash game online, what criteria am I looking for when choosing a table? Thanks.-Ted

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Steve -I hear a lot about "table selection" from people around the forums, regarding cash games. What makes a "good table"? Is it finding a single player you know is weak and sitting in? What other factors contribute to a "good table"? If I'm looking to sit in on a .50/1.00NL or 1/2NL cash game online, what criteria am I looking for when choosing a table? Thanks.-Ted
depends on your style. if you are laggy you want weak tight tables, if you are a tag you want loose passive tables.Weak tight tables can be great.
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STud 8/b questionI play micro limits stud 8/b on PS. I often have trouble in the following situation - I pick up a big pair (QQ and up) and i start ramming and jamming. If i do improve to 2 pair by 5th street, I'm usually a very happy person. The problem comes when 5th street arrives and i still only have one big pair and i'm in a 3-way or more pot. Its here that i start to get scared beacuse i feel that if i dont get 2 pair by this time, my hand has no showdown value. So i usually dump it on 5th. However, the needle really comes when two players make it to the showdown - one has a low, the other has only one shitty pair that I could have beat (results biased i know). When do you feel is the ideal time to dump your big starting pair in stud 8? How many people shoudl be in the pot to make your one big pair have no showdown value?What street should be the cutoff point that you stop playing your big pair aggressively?Should I always beware of an opponent's paired board when i only have one big pair?
at microlimits, very very few pots are gonna be HU and hands like QQ lose a lot of value when they can't isolate. moreover, when you're playing total idiots, you have no clue if they're getting in there with k3/4 and won't know if that 5th street king got you, so just toss QQ on third in those sorts of games. the basic idea behind stud8, and split pot games in general, is to lock up the low and freeroll toward a high, and QQ type hands in stud8 just can't do that. if you're playing more talented players, you will need to occasionally isolate one low draw with big pairs, but even then, QQ is almost always a toss on third.
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depends on your style. if you are laggy you want weak tight tables, if you are a tag you want loose passive tables.Weak tight tables can be great.
Is this information we get from pokertracker? Is it standard practice to let pokertracker run in a few cash games even while you're not playing?
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Most pros will keep x amount of dollars in their bank roll. They usually will have other money set aside for living expenses. Everyone treats their money differently. When someone is doing well they tend to buy things. That is human nature. I can't speak for all players. I know guys who spend money like it's going out of style. I also know some who are quite frugal. It really depends on the individual.If a poker player has to get health insuarance on his own, he simply applies for an indivdual policy. As far as taxes go, most people keep records. They also factor in tournaments. A good accountant will go over all of the necessary filings for a poker player and they should be fine.
Steve since you're basically strictly a live player, is it very common for many pros to just pocket some casino chips instead of always cashing it out all at once to avoid extra taxing? I remember hearing that Thunder Keller had every black $100 chip at an AZ casino. And do the casinos out in LA and Vegas make you filll out a tax form if you win a certain x amount of dollars at one time?
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depends on your style. if you are laggy you want weak tight tables, if you are a tag you want loose passive tables.Weak tight tables can be great.
What's the best way to determine the nature of the table using the table stats? For example, if I'm looking for a weak-tight table, do I want low % players seeing flops and a low average pot? Or a higher average pot, because that might indicate players are calling stations? Does a high % players seeing the flop and high average pot usually indicate a LAG table?
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Steve , i remember Barry Greenstein saying " More than %50 of our winnings and losses in poker comes from either ours or other people's tilt" . Do you agree with this?
I think that's a fair statement. A lot of people don't realize that they are tilting until it's too late. Poker can be an emotional game because you are dealing with money. Nobody likes losing money. In fact nobody likes losing, period. Tilt can be defined in many different ways. Some people play crazy and bet, raise, etc. Others quietly sneak in a few more hands than they would normally play. Barry often said that he was successful because he was better prepared than his opponents. Preparation has a lot to do with winning. That is something that few poker players truly understand.
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Steve -I hear a lot about "table selection" from people around the forums, regarding cash games. What makes a "good table"? Is it finding a single player you know is weak and sitting in? What other factors contribute to a "good table"? If I'm looking to sit in on a .50/1.00NL or 1/2NL cash game online, what criteria am I looking for when choosing a table? Thanks.-Ted
A good table often depends on how well you play with others. You must figure out your own style of play, what works for you, and identify the type of player that you have had the most amount of success with.My ideal table has one or two good players, a couple of avg players, and a few bad players. When you sit at a table and find yourself most comfortable, regardless of the cards. Begin to take note of what the composition of the table is. That should give you a pretty good idea of what type of table you do best at.
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How do you manage the movement of funds without carrying around too much cash?Is it a good idea to keep a partial bankroll in chips or on account at the casinos you frequent?

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Steve since you're basically strictly a live player, is it very common for many pros to just pocket some casino chips instead of always cashing it out all at once to avoid extra taxing? I remember hearing that Thunder Keller had every black $100 chip at an AZ casino. And do the casinos out in LA and Vegas make you filll out a tax form if you win a certain x amount of dollars at one time?
Most higher limit pros use casino chips because they take up less room than cash. It doesn't have a lot to do with extra taxing.The story about Thomas Keller was exaggerated if I remember correctly.In Las Vegas they take note of cashing out more than 3k, and make you file anything over 10k. LA they make you file over 10k.
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at microlimits, very very few pots are gonna be HU and hands like QQ lose a lot of value when they can't isolate. moreover, when you're playing total idiots, you have no clue if they're getting in there with k3/4 and won't know if that 5th street king got you, so just toss QQ on third in those sorts of games. the basic idea behind stud8, and split pot games in general, is to lock up the low and freeroll toward a high, and QQ type hands in stud8 just can't do that. if you're playing more talented players, you will need to occasionally isolate one low draw with big pairs, but even then, QQ is almost always a toss on third.
What about KK or AA? If you think KK and AA are a toss on 3rd, how about AA+low kicker for a low possibility?Would you consider 3-way to be isolated enough to play QQ and up?
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How do you manage the movement of funds without carrying around too much cash?Is it a good idea to keep a partial bankroll in chips or on account at the casinos you frequent?
Casino chips and players accounts are a good way to avoid carrying around large sums of money.
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What about KK or AA? If you think KK and AA are a toss on 3rd, how about AA+low kicker for a low possibility?Would you consider 3-way to be isolated enough to play QQ and up?
AA with a low kicker is a great hand in stud8. Because you will almost always be against multiple opponents, you want to play low cards. The only time you want to have a high hand is when you can get it heads up. If you have a high hand you will always be in the spot of wondering where you are against multiple players.This strategy changes a bit as you move up in limits.
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KQ is hitting today... I think he is taking about that sort of thing. Balloon guy is an expert at picking the hot cards.
Rare that there are two cards that keep showing up on the flop...but yea, this is the general idea.Thanks Nate
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Rare that there are two cards that keep showing up on the flop...but yea, this is the general idea.Thanks Nate
I don't believe in hot cards. I do believe that certain people can run quite well on any given day.
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Two Questions:1. In the Responsible Gaming subsection menu on Pokerstars, is there any way to block myself from playing the $1.10 FL O8B MTT that runs nightly on stars?2. If I fail with the first question, do you have any tips for O8B when there are 6 people to a flop? I try to sit back and play pretty tightly. I look for A2, and generally want more than 2 quality low cards to avoid counterfitting, preferrably with straight and flush possibilities for scooping potential. If I can see cheap flops with high connecters, I'll do that, too. Bluffing, of course, is completely out of the realm of possibility at these stakes, I don't even attempt it until the blinds hit at least 100/200. Even then, it's semis, pushing betters highs out when I'm attempting to scoop, etc.My main goal in playing these donkfests is to get a little better at limit 8OB because O8B is easily the weak spot in my HORSE game. I've found that the only thing worse than Razz players in Razz micro tourneys is Razz players in HORSE tourneys. The incredible edge I get in Razz is somewhat negated by my overly tight play in O8B. I had a dude have connections problems ONLY DURING the first two Razz levels last night. It absolutely killed my profitably in that HORSE tournament.So basically, any basic pointers for lower limit O8B would be appreciated :club:

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oh brother.can you not be a moron in this thread?edit: that came off harsher than I meant it. But not as harsh as I thought it
I generally stay out of your way, giving you the resepect you've arguably earned here.But seriously, how could Steve or someone of his calibur tossing out a few low-limit O8B pointers be a bad thing for this thread? At least I'm asking decent questions. You, on the other hand got a half dozen posts in this thread and only asked 1 question, and spent the rest of the time lobbying for fomat changes you could have PM'd him about (if you were truly after upholding the sanctity of this thread). :club:
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Two Questions:1. In the Responsible Gaming subsection menu on Pokerstars, is there any way to block myself from playing the $1.10 FL O8B MTT that runs nightly on stars?2. If I fail with the first question, do you have any tips for O8B when there are 6 people to a flop? I try to sit back and play pretty tightly. I look for A2, and generally want more than 2 quality low cards to avoid counterfitting, preferrably with straight and flush possibilities for scooping potential. If I can see cheap flops with high connecters, I'll do that, too. Bluffing, of course, is completely out of the realm of possibility at these stakes, I don't even attempt it until the blinds hit at least 100/200. Even then, it's semis, pushing betters highs out when I'm attempting to scoop, etc.My main goal in playing these donkfests is to get a little better at limit 8OB because O8B is easily the weak spot in my HORSE game. I've found that the only thing worse than Razz players in Razz micro tourneys is Razz players in HORSE tourneys. The incredible edge I get in Razz is somewhat negated by my overly tight play in O8B. I had a dude have connections problems ONLY DURING the first two Razz levels last night. It absolutely killed my profitably in that HORSE tournament.So basically, any basic pointers for lower limit O8B would be appreciated :club:
I have no clue about the responsible gaming menu on stars. I've talked a bit about o8 in previous questions. I would reccomend that you get some literature on the subject. Some good books out there that discuss o8.
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